This is a summary of research papers and studies
from the National Center for Biotechnology Information (NCBI)

ABOUT SEA BUCKTHORN

Sea buckthorn (Hippophae rhamnoides L.) is a hardy, berry-bearing shrub belonging to the family Elaeagnaceae. Beyond its botanical hardiness, sea buckthorn has been a staple in Asian and Russian traditional medicine for centuries. In recent years, its usage for skin regeneration has bridged the gap between traditional remedies and contemporary medicine, as researchers explore its dense profile of bioactive compounds and their specific benefits for skin health. 

Properties 

The sea buckthorn plant typically grows between 3 to 4 meters in height, characterized by silver-grey leaves and branches frequently covered in stiff spines. Its berries, which are the primary source of its beneficial oils, are spherical or oblong, ranging in color from yellow-orange to red-orange. Sea buckthorn powder contains a unique "cocktail" of more than 190 bioactive compounds that are rarely found together in a single plant source. These properties define its function as a topical agent:

• Vitamins and Antioxidants: The fruit is exceptionally rich in Vitamin C, with concentrations reaching up to 1550 mg/100g—far exceeding that of citrus fruits. It also contains high levels of Vitamin E (tocopherols), Vitamin A (carotenoids), and Vitamin K. These act as powerful antioxidants that minimize lipid oxidation and protect the skin from free radicals generated by UV radiation and pollution.
• Essential Fatty Acids: Sea buckthorn is one of the few plants to provide a 1:1 ratio of Omega-3 (linolenic acid) and Omega-6 (linoleic acid). More uniquely, it is a rare source of Omega-7 (palmitoleic acid), a component of skin lipids that supports tissue regeneration and wound healing.
• Flavonoids and Phenols: The powder contains potent flavonoids such as quercetin, isorhamnetin, and kaempferol. These compounds possess anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial properties, making the powder effective in treating sensitive or damaged skin.

When applied topically, sea buckthorn acts as a natural ultraviolet light filter and a skin-regenerating agent. It serves as a natural plasticizer and emollient, improving the skin's microcirculation and regulating cell metabolism. 

The plant’s distinctive orange-red color is attributed to its high carotenoid content, including beta-carotene, zeaxanthin, and lycopene. 

Functions

The diverse chemical makeup of sea buckthorn allows it to perform several critical biological functions.

Antioxidant Action

The compounds found in sea buckthorn inhibit or delay the oxidation of molecules by stopping oxidative chain reactions. This antioxidant effect is achieved by enhancing the activity of antioxidant enzymes and inhibiting oxidases. Specifically, flavonoids like isorhamnetin and quercetin, prevalent in the fruit and leaves, offer protection against oxidative damage and aging.

Anti-inflammatory and Antimicrobial Properties

Sea buckthorn extracts have demonstrated the ability to inhibit inflammation. For example, phenolic components such as catechin and epigallocatechin have been shown to inhibit inflammation induced by tumor promoters. Additionally, the plant exhibits antibacterial and antiviral activities, with some extracts showing a strong zone of inhibition against various microorganisms.

Regenerative Function

Perhaps the most celebrated function of sea buckthorn in skincare is its ability to safeguard cell membranes and improve cell regeneration. This is largely due to the synergistic action of omega-3, 6, and 7 fatty acids, natural antioxidants, and phytosterols. Palmitoleic acid, a component naturally found in human skin, is particularly vital for treating burns and promoting wound healing.

Benefits for the Skin

The topical application of sea buckthorn oil provides a wide range of benefits, from general maintenance to the treatment of severe trauma. 

Sebum Control and Anti-Acne Activity

High facial sebum levels often lead to acne. Sea buckthorn has been shown to inhibit Type 1-α reductase, which subsequently regulates sebum production. Furthermore, extracts of sea buckthorn berry powder exhibit broad-spectrum antibacterial activity against common pathogens like Staphylococcus aureus and Escherichia coli, which are often implicated in skin infections and acne. 

Management of Thermal Burns

One of the most significant dermatological benefits of sea buckthorn oil is its efficacy in treating thermal burns. According to recent research, the use of sea buckthorn oil in circumscribed burns accelerates the healing process by 7 days compared to untreated wounds.

In experimental settings using a histological scoring system—which quantifies healing based on the presence of a crust, re-epithelization, and the formation of dermal papillae—sea buckthorn oil showed clear advantages:

• Initial Stages: While untreated burns often show a complete absence of the epidermis and necrosis of sebaceous glands at three days post-injury, skin treated with sea buckthorn oil shows a tightly attached crust and the beginning of minimal epithelization.
• Intermediate Healing: By day seven, treated skin shows significant progress at the dermal level, with fibroblasts beginning to synthesize collagen and the appearance of buds for hair follicles.
• Final Remodeling: By day 14, the contact area of the burn effectively disappears in treated subjects, with the skin structures entering the final phases of remodeling.

The composition of the oil, rich in lipids and vitamins, ensures that the healing phases proceed normally without being hindered by secondary microbial infections. 

Anti-Aging and Skin Protection

One of the most sought-after functions of sea buckthorn powder is its ability to combat skin aging. Aging is driven by both genetic factors and external stressors like UV radiation, which increase the synthesis of enzymes (hyaluronidase, elastase, and collagenase) that break down the skin's structural matrix. The high concentration of Vitamin E (specifically alpha-tocopherol) and carotenoids helps protect the skin from environmental stressors. 

The primary mechanism of anti-aging in sea buckthorn is its free radical scavenging capability. By delivering a concentrated dose of Vitamins C and E and polyphenolic acids, the powder neutralizes Reactive Oxygen Species (ROS) before they can damage cutaneous cells and loosen collagen fibers. This protects the skin from "photo-aging" caused by sun exposure. 

Collagen Synthesis and Firmness

Sea buckthorn’s carotenoids and Vitamin C play a critical role in stimulating collagen synthesis. Collagen provides strength and structure to the skin; as its production increases, the appearance of wrinkles and fine lines is reduced. Clinical research has shown that sea buckthorn can treat prematurely aging skin and remove freckles, leading to a more youthful texture. 

Restoration of Elasticity and Hydration

Aging skin often suffers from increased roughness and decreased viscoelasticity. Topical applications of sea buckthorn-enriched creams have been documented to significantly improve skin roughness, hydration, and distensibility. The presence of phytosterols improves the skin’s barrier function, preventing water loss and ensuring the dermis remains plump and elastic. 

Pigmentation and Whitening

The flavonoids present in sea buckthorn have a significant whitening effect. They work by inhibiting tyrosinase, the rate-limiting enzyme responsible for melanin production (melanogenesis). Clinical studies on patients with melasma have shown significant reductions in melanin content and improvements in skin tone after regular application. 

Wound Healing and Tissue Repair

The presence of palmitoleic acid is a key factor in the oil's wound-healing capabilities. Because this fatty acid is a constituent of the skin, topical application helps restore the skin's natural barrier function. This makes it useful not only for burns but also for various skin disorders where the protective barrier has been compromised. 

Topical formulations of sea buckthorn powder or oil have demonstrated remarkable success in accelerating the treatment of burns, frostbites, and radiation-induced dermatitis. Its high Vitamin K content helps prevent bleeding and promotes epithelialization (the formation of new skin). Clinical trials suggest its efficacy in skin grafts and reducing tissue inflammation, making it a staple for regenerative skincare. 

Conclusion

Sea buckthorn is a complex botanical resource with a unique profile of fatty acids, vitamins, and antioxidants. Its topical application offers profound benefits for the skin, most notably in its ability to significantly speed up the healing of burns and wounds through cellular regeneration and anti-inflammatory action. While traditionally valued in folk medicine, the rigorous histological and chemical analysis of its properties confirms its status as a highly effective agent in modern dermatological care. Whether used for its anti-aging properties or for the treatment of traumatic tissue injury, sea buckthorn oil remains a "powerhouse" for skin health and recovery.